Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of .

Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp. com Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over 90°. (My open hand strength is lagging and I suck at pockets because of it though. Have climbed 5. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 * 1 ETH Zurich, Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, Zurich, Switzerland 2 University of Basel, Department of Sport, Exercise and Health, Basel significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. from publication: Effect of Instagram: https://www. Jan 19, 2021 · We describe seven of the most commonly used grip positions and the differences between them. 8% for the non-dominant hand. You can train all these styles on the hangboard. tenosynovitis: inflammation of the fluid-filled sheath (called the synovium) that surrounds a tendon, typically leading to joint pain, swelling, and stiffness. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Introduction Many climbers believe that they are stronger in the crimp position than the open hand position, but the crimp is linked to higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. Jan 19, 2021 · We describe seven of the most commonly used grip positions and the differences between them. If I remember correctly, a full crimp puts up to 36x the strain on your tendons vs open hand and it's dry firing off that creates the most stress. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Apr 5, 2018 · If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. The important part is that it results in you being sufficiently strong in all grips. I think in a 3fd your fingers, hand and wrist are pretty much alined in a straight line, not taxing the wrist. Learn when to use each grip and optimize your climbing experience! Aug 25, 2019 · I stayed away from anything full crimp for a while and mainly worked open hand and non-aggravating half crimp climbs. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort. You'll NEVER Full Crimp Again After Watching This Open Hand vs Crimp Crimp Vs Half Crimp When to use a half crimp grip. instagram. 12c/V7-. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. The components of a good connection include: A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. I'm thinking 3 fingers - good to work both positions, especially for front 3. half crimp and 4) are both full crimps. However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. Too much chance for injury doing half crimp We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. I am now only hangboarding half crimp and highly recommend, up to +38kg on 20mm and You will burn a lot more forearm if you're trying to crimp everything, most climbers strive to reduce the percentage of time they need to crimp holds. 2 fingers - for non-wads probably just open hand. Nov 20, 2023 · Discover the differences between the open-hand grip and crimp grip in climbing. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? Oct 23, 2024 · The half-crimp adds the thumb, known as a thumb lock. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. *抓点手型推荐Half Crimp或Open Hand Crimp Grip，详情见后文。 *手型Crimp、half crimp、full crimp在网上有翻译成「小扣扣」或者「小片儿」都是对岩点的归类，在手型上还未有统一和恰当的翻译。我也没想到能够传达含义的词语，直接用英文并在后文上图。欢迎大家后台出主意 作为V15抱石高手的埃米尔每天 Half crimp will improve your full crimp strength. Dazu bohrt man sich geradezu in den Griff und überstreckt das erste I recently did my test day and noticed my fingers were holding in open crimp vs the suggested half crimp I've read online. The following is a guide to basic crimp techniques - designed to provide for quality terminations and to prevent poor connections. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. The thumb wrap is not necessary to full crimp. Crimp grips come in several varieties, each offering unique advantages and challenges. Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. Small handholds requiring the “crimp” position exert the greatest compressive force to finger joint cartilage, compared with the “open hand” position that is more protective. On the left is an open hand crimp. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. Avoid full crimping at your max until your fingers have strengthened. That being said, one of the most prolific climbing coaches and training experts (and of course a very hard climber Mar 30, 2024 · Grip Types: Focus on half-crimp and full-crimp grips. It's worth noting that my full crimp doesn't seem all that different really from the reference photos. The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, Nov 7, 2010 · the semi-open hand or half crimp position is very strong and covers a lot of bases, check out some video of someone on a campus board to see what i mean. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. . I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. Jun 3, 2025 · Abstract Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. Not being strong on half crimp or full crimp meant that any crimpy overhanging climbs were out of my league (ie most harder grade stuff!). Mar 1, 2025 · What’s the difference between an open hand grip and a closed crimp? An open hand grip keeps your fingers in a more relaxed position, like you’re holding a baseball, while a closed crimp involves folding your fingertips down and possibly wrapping your thumb over them. Full-Crimp: I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? The half crimp allows you to generate more power than the open-hand grip while still reducing the stress on your joints compared to the full crimp. Learn all about how to do it and how to avoid crimping injuries. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Some argue that the half crimp strength translates to full/open, but there is research that suggests that strength is specific to joint angle. Elevate your climbing game with this knowledge. com/always__climb15/TikTok: https://www. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Pulley injuries frequently happen due to rapid & intense stress I rarely dyno directly to an open crimp and foot slippage when in the more stable hand grip should logically happen less frequently So from all these points, it would make much more sense to consider the half crimp or open crimp to be the more risky grips, or am I missing something ? Open hand vs. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. I'm currently climbing V6-7 outside and hard crimp problems are actually my specialty. Mar 1, 2019 · The full crimp grip is one of 6 hand and finger positions used in rock climbing. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. I've never full crimped, It feels really hard to get into never mind pull off of. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. The full-crimp hand position should be reserved for those difficult crimp sequences where maximum stability is required. It is important to remain careful and pay attention as your muscles and tendons get tense and strain develops in your hands and wrists. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. chris r On some climbs it will likely be necessary to half crimp to keep yourself on the wall, so getting comfortable with half crimping is a good idea. Die fünf interessanten sind: aufgestellt halb-offen offen aufgelegt Zangen Dann gibt es noch: Henkel Mantel aufgestellt eng: Crimp, Full Crimp Griffe: Leisten, Kanten Mit aufgestellten Fingern greift man überwiegend kleine Leisten oder Kanten. Training one grip type is ok if you still end up being well rounded, personally I am naturally much stronger open-hand no matter how much I train half-crimp, so I just train half crimp all the time (convenient huh?). Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of Jul 5, 2021 · It is one of the most common and frequent injuries experienced by climbers. Sep 27, 2024 · This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. The full-crimp is almost identical to the half-crimp. Intense campus boarding on smaller rungs can also play a role, or simply subjecting your fingers to excessive repetitive forces on the wall. To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. tiktok. The climber uses the same starting hand position as the open hand but wraps their thumb around their index finger. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. He replied saying that he trains in open half as it feels more natural and he avoids half crimp (depending on edge size like you mention). ) May 19, 2009 · In reply to Simon Lee: It can look like open handed training can aid crimp strength. Is this normal? Am I best training half crimped, open, or both? I feel like 但与 Full Crimp 和 Half Crimp 相比，Open Hand 虽然抓握力最弱，但却是最省力，同时，也是对关节压力最小的抓点方法。 非常推荐新手练习搭点，一来入门的时候不会碰到太小的 Crimp 点，二来可以慢慢建立起手指力量，再者养成好的抓点习惯，避免受伤。 The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. Jul 10, 2023 · There are three general ways to hold a crimp- Open Hand, Half Crimp, and Full crimp (shown in the pictures in that order). foot slip, sudden tiring of the muscles, dynamic move) causes more stress than a concentric force Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. JimR 19 May 2009 In reply to Simon Lee: Nov 18, 2007 · It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. By training slowly and delicately the muscle to open hand crimp, daily, I gain strength and now I use open hands more often and put less stress on my fingers. However if you So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. If you watch Paul Robinson climb you'll see he often latches holes in a chisel grip (efficient and strong to hang on) and then readjusts to a half, or much more often full crimp, to then pull so he can still push down on the hold as he gets above it. com IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. I tend to use half or sometimes full crimps for 'hard' edges and positions, then go open drag to rest or do easier moves. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. He explained that there are two main differences between the (full) crimp vs the open hand grip: 1) the actual force vector Due to the shape of your bone and the distance between bone and actual contact area between finger and rock, the full crimp can provide a different force vector thus increasing the possible force exerted on the contact area. Each grip type listed above places a decreasing amount of force through the fingers. Progressive Overload: Gradually increase the difficulty of your hangs. The open-hand grip. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. We also discuss the types of full-crimp. com/@partner__15?Gmail: xaoxiongclimb15@gmail. Full crimp allows you to pull out on holds more, which can allow you to use delta to pull on holds, rather than engaging the shoulder and keeping the elbow tight to pull with lats. Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. Closed Crimp vs. It's a great option for intermediate-sized holds where you need a bit more grip but don't want to go all-in on the full crimp. Using the thumb helps to lock your fingers onto the crimp and generate more force. A full crimp feels like it relies on stacking the joints rather than working tendons/muscles. Half-Crimp: When your fingertips are on a crimp, and your knuckles are bent around 90°. from publication: Effect of Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used wheneverpossible. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. ) If you can commit to never using a full crimp ever than sure, but if you only use open hand while training, then hop on the dream proj that requires a full crimp that you’ve never trained then you’re asking for trouble. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. Basic Crimp Techniques and the Components of a Good Connection PIDGTM Terminals and Splices Insulation Restricting PIDGTM Terminal SOLISTRAND Terminals Wire Barrel Functions (Closed and Open) Wire Insulation Variations Wire Preparation Proper Strip Length and Wire Placement Insulation Crimp Adjustment Dot Coding Crimp Inspection Double Action Hand Tool it might be useful to differentiate between a closed crimp (thumb wrapped around index) and full crimp (joint angle significantly higher than half crimp). g. Related: Injury Prevention Quick Tip—Preventing and Strengthening Against Shoulder Impingement Recommended Exercise: Child’s Pose Finger Lifts My open hands crimps was wayyy weaker than my full crimp and that led me to overuse the full. Yea, my open hand is four fingers but I see half crimp as almost basicly a full crimp without the thumb. The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. I kept doing light finger rolls (40-50 rep range) and if I did hangboard it was only open hand. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: 😍 Instagram Nov 14, 2022 · The half crimp and full crimp create much more of this friction than open handed positions, so frequent crimping is the obvious culprit. The half-crimp grip, where your fingers are bent at about 90 degrees at the first knuckle without thumb overwrap, is especially important for building strength safely. Feb 2, 2025 · Ultimately, you should only use the half crimp and the full crimp when you need a quick boost for speed and strength. e. Short version (my opinion): - When in doubt, measure a strict half crimp at the index finger by keeping a straight line through PIP, DIP, and fingernail/edge. Crimping: Open Barrel Crimp Connectors - Contact types and their application Definitions of terminology and functional areas in the crimp contact and respective requirements. I'm strongest on open, next strongest full, followed by half crimp. Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can do 5 pull ups on 3 finger drag. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Jan 5, 2025 · Half crimp: more muscle contraction, more tiring, but can vary angle of hand to hold without changing angle of tips on the hold by bending fingers. Nov 10, 2024 · I’ve discovered my half crimp strength has gone almost completely and I now open hand everything. Dec 17, 2021 · If you are slipping from half-crimp into open-hand during your fingerboard routine, you likely require a larger edge, or longer rest between reps or sets. Nov 9, 2021 · If not then it'd be whatever crimp gives you the best purchase and allows you to generate the most power from a given hold. Aug 21, 2024 · Open-Hand Crimp: When your fingertips are on a crimp, and your hand is below the hold. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. Compared to the full crimp, half crimp seldom causes serious tendon injuries and strain. Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta. May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 drag (open) 4 finger half crimp (closed) What actually happens when we train our grip? Neurological adaptations: Typically, these are quick changes that happen specific to a new protocol and include increasing the magnitude, rate of firing and synchronisation of motor units. I feel most comfortable with the four finger open hands, and will try to focus on that grip for now. Full and closed crimp have the greatest impact. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. Same with full crimp, deadhang some full crimps for max hangs, if you can't do it with bodyweight, take some weight off. Crimping ain’t easy. Full Crimp: When you’re half-crimping, bring your thumb over the top of your pointer finger. The full crimp grip. I haven't noticed any problems because of it. The goal is to open hand as much as possible, half crimp when you need to and full crimp only when necessary. Repeated use of either grip is physically taxing and can lead to serious hand and wrist injuries. Dec 24, 2012 · Just curious if folks hang 3 and 2 fingers half crimped, or if you guys switch over to open handed dragging for those. However he did say that he trains full crimp which would train the things the true half crimp position trains. The ability to keep you elbow close to the wall while pulling with an open hand can really limit how comfortable you are in open hand vs close crimp. Jan 31, 2022 · (Photo: JOHN COEFIELD) HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. Hence, the aim of this study was to determine how accurate climbers from different Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. I mostly use open drag to latch hold that are far away and pull it into half or full crimp depending on the hold. Aug 14, 2021 · Unlike a full crimp where you lock your thumb over the top of your index finger, the half and open crimp positions ask you to trust your crimp strength with your thumb flying free. Dec 4, 2020 · The half-crimp offers the climber greater leverage when they are pulling hard. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. A half crimp position is simply a crimp with the palm flat or “open”. Anyone else have this experience? I'm always training half-crimp and climb mostly half-crimp with some full-crimp too. Is it worth training my half crimp strength specifically? Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. This position is often misidentified: climbers often claim they are in a half crimp when they are actually in a full crimp minus the thumb. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. I'm strongest at full crimp and weaker as the grip opens up, with 3fd being my weakest by far. Just recently started training closed crimps. Jan 24, 2016 · Man kann die verschiedenen Arten zu Greifen in sieben Kategorien aufteilen. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. In reply to Simon Lee: It can look like open handed training can aid crimp strength. Pulleys allow for an efficient transfer of force from the flexor tendons to the phalanges to generate finger flexion The full crimp position causes more stress on the pulleys than the open hand position An eccentric force (e. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. Yes the first joint is bent more, but if you look at the angle of your knuckles instead, that seems to be a better indicator of half crimp vs full crimp for me. I’m not convinced there is a big benefit to training true half crimp vs open half. The thumb should rest around two to five centimetres beneath your pointer finger, off-set, one to three centimetres from the pointer, depending on hand size. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. The idea is to train this position carefully in a controlled environment instead of rolling the dice when on the rock. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dec 21, 2022 · No matter how disciplined we are about trying to hold an open-hand or half-crimp position, when the going gets tough, the full crimp comes into play. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. This is probably the most difficult position for people who are very strong full crimpers to achieve. I was in a similar position to you, always used to climb open hand only - i could hang 80% of body weight open hand 20mm edge, but couldn't even half crimp my body weight. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. I asked Sean Mccoll about this a while back. Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger drag. An open hand or half crimp have a gentler impact on your joints. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. Half Crimp vs. May 2, 2018 · If a crimp is needed, then first utilize a half crimp, then if it’s a must, use a full crimp. Our results revealed that advanced climbers significantly overestimated their strength in the half-crimp position compared to the open hand on average by 9. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. The correlations with route grades were similar. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. Dec 12, 2024 · There are three types of crimp grips in climbing: Full-Crimp, Half-Crimp and Open-Hand Crimp. Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. The half crimp grip. kfpe sqoh qieyf drog uruoqbzx crszt lafh gurdozz olho vaxro