Climbers ape index. (2000) for adult male climbers (1.
Climbers ape index. I feel like you'd need more data to actually determine whether ape index plays a role in climbing harder. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. This will give you a value that’s either positive, neutral, or negative. An architect and engineer, Vitruvius Pollio, made a claim that a “well made man” of good proportions had an arm span equal to his height. 69 Likes, TikTok video from restdaycharles (@restdaycharles): “Some pro male climber APE indexes are wild An ape index is essentially your wingspan in comparison to your height. 5 percent stronger. 4 cm and between +1. Nov 12, 2018 · Given that rock climbing has recently been added to the Olympic portfolio, this timely review will focus on nutritional considerations for training and competition for the three official competitive events in rock climbing, namely bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. A number of these have included the ape index as one of the variables. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. … Dai Koyamda is 165cm/5'5". Jul 15, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1. Some climbers wear incredibly baggy clothes, others wear jeans and beanies, and some just wear normal athletic wear. 05 vs. These showstopper movements also increased climbing’s appeal as an Olympic spectator sport. Swimmers gain advantage from a wider wingspan, enabling efficient strokes. The friendly staff is known for their insightful instructions and assistance. The gym provides guidance for newcomers and has facilities catering to climbers of varying expertise. May 31, 2022 · Pro climber Chelsea Rude, who’s onsighted up to 5. The typical ape index for pro male climbers ranges between +3. 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder 66 Board Climbers 61 Sport Climbers 14 Trad Climbers Height and Ape Index Directory of climbers 212 climbers Filters Apr 18, 2022 · What is Ape Index? Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. [6] Similarly, in a later work it was Oct 13, 2024 · In rock climbing it is believed that an Ape Index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers, but this is still controversial, have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio. A balanced focus on training, skill development, and experience plays a far more significant role in a climber's journey towards mastery. By determining the ape index, users gain a better understanding of their The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). One aspect that climbers commonly discuss is the “ape index,” a unique measurement that combines arm length and height, giving insights into a climber’s potential. Covering 35 miles, ascending 23,000 feet vertically across 126 pitches, and conquering 23 summits, this feat included technical routes Reach New Heights at Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym If you’re a seeker or a climbing enthusiast our indoor climbing facility in Peoria, Arizona is the perfect destination for you. Ai Mori, Brooke Raboutou, Laura Rogora, Jain Kim, countless others are all short but compete (and win) at the highest level of climbing. and i'm short (female) to top it off. belief & its true effect on your climbing. APE Index is not affiliated with AmericanTowns Media Share I started climbing here on and off a few years ago! At first I thought this could never compare my last climbing gym In the North East Valley but I have found the fountain of youth here in the West valley! Ape index is a great place for more competitive climbers to go. Information, reviews and photos of the institution Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym, at: 9700 N 91st Ave, Peoria, AZ 85345, USA Jul 25, 2025 · Ape Index focuses on safety through proper instruction, while offering everyone, from first-time climbers to competitive athletes, an area to have fun and grow. Mar 14, 2023 · Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Feb 23, 2020 · This compounds the benefit, as longer legs provide a larger base, from which those lengthier arms can then be leveraged. Professional male climbers generally have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. Jul 7, 2025 · Body measurement that factors into a rock climber's "ape index" Crossword Clue Q&A When was Body measurement that factors into a rock climber's "ape index" crossword clue used most recently? This clue was last seen in the July 7, 2025's Apple+ Crossword. Therefore it would only be applicable in this scenario if two climbers had the same height. This data might show you that people with longer arm spans generally climb harder (or not, who knows) but it won't show that it is generally Adam Ondra (Czech pronunciation: [ˈadam ˈondra]; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. We provide a safe and controlled facility where active, fun-seeking individuals can challenge themselves, learn climbing, and bond with the climbing community in a positive and nurturing environment. . Being small has a lot of advantages in climbing (light, keeping the body close to the wall) and it's no coincidence that the vast majority of pro climbers (male and female) are below average height HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. On average, people have an ape index of zero—something that was noticed millennia ago by Vitruvius, as depicted Join Ape Index for a fun night of headlamp climbing the 1st Friday of every month! Lights go out at 7pm and headlamps are required (rental headlamps available at the front desk). It’s believed that most people’s wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. Sep 17, 2024 · Jimmy Webb is an American rock climber and boulderer from Tennessee who's well known in the climbing community for his impressive number of first ascents and Feb 2, 2024 · Our Favorite for the Best Overall Climbing Gyms in Phoenix Ape Index Rock Climbing Overview: Simply put, the Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym is a premium facility that was recently remodeled entirely to give its customers a heavily new feel. Whether you're looking for a fun climbing experience or want to train and improve your skills, Ape Index offers a welcoming environment that won't disappoint. Aug 3, 2021 · Climbers unconsciously unleashed their inner ape, limbs flew. Ape index is basically the same as reach. Generally, a good ape index for climbing falls anywhere between +2. Climbers are always arguing whether taller climbers have an advantage when climbing. Note, it is in Peoria not Gilbert. This is the ratio of your height/reach (index finger to index finger). Mar 20, 2017 · Curious how your ape index and other factors stack up against the crushers that have sent Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge? Significance in competition climbing Multiple studies have been conducted into the effect of physiological factors, such as anthropometry and flexibility, in determining rock climbing ability, particularly in the area of competition climbing, which is an Olympic sport. First, measure your wingspan, from outstretched fingertip to fingertip. A person with an ape index of less than 1 has Yeah, I think the idea of being too small that some recreational climbers have can be very easily debunked after watching just a single IFSC event. 3 cm for pro female climbers. Whilst the norm is an index of 1, the same as your height. Contact us if you have questions. What is a good ape index for climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. A positive ape index is considered advantageous for rock climbers. Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. The subjects included thirty 1. Jonny2vests 10 Oct 2013 In reply to David Alcock: All included subjects practiced indoor sports climbing for at least one year. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. Purpose: It helps individuals understand their body proportions, which can influence performance in certain activities where reach and leverage are May 2, 2023 · What’s with the 5. I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically Apr 25, 2024 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Jul 16, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym offers an exhilarating indoor rock-climbing experience, featuring over 12,000 square feet of climbing space suitable for all skill levels. Boxing favors fighters with extended reach, offering a tactical advantage in the ring. Strength to weight ratios, average finger strength, style of climbing all would play a factor. Both male and female sport climbers presented higher lean muscle mass than control subjects only in the study of Philippe et al. It's not far from where my brother lives, so we came here with my sister to do some climbing before I had to fly back to San Jose. Although my Dad had encouraged me to explore climbing for years, it was not until I was 18 that I fell in love with rock climbing after trying bouldering as a form of cross training for downhill mountain Jul 7, 2021 · Brooke Raboutou is one of America's strongest young climbers and will be representing the USA at the 2021 Olympics. Ape Index calculator and how to measure your ape index by yourself. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced Apr 28, 2025 · Height 6′ 5″ Age 43 (1972–2015) Ape Index Unknown Nationality American Dean Potter was one of the most daring and influential figures in the world of rock climbing and adventure In climbing, a positive Ape Index can open up new possibilities and allow climbers to tackle more challenging routes. 13c and repointed much harder, seems to do just fine with her -2” ape index. Ape Index stands as one of the best gyms in Phoenix. However, climbing performance depends on many factors, including technique, strength, flexibility, and problem-solving skills. Understanding your ape index can not only enhance your athletic pursuits but also offer insight into your body mechanics Feb 7, 2024 · Climbing at a high level lends itself to a certain body type. The Japanese climber Feb 1, 2023 · As they say, correlation isn't necessarily causation. Granted, they are all at least 5' but if Brooke can send V14 with a 1" ape index, the ceiling for you is still very very high. A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius prior to 15 BC. Mar 1, 2011 · The variable of a positive arm span to height ratio (ie Ape Index) is often suggested to be advantageous for climbing performance, but has never been reported in Chinese climbers. From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. It seems all the local rock gyms don't open Introduction The Ape Index Calculator is a specialized tool designed to help climbers and athletes measure their arm span in relation to their height. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are conducting an extensive study (over a large subset of competition climbers) to identify which factors specifically contribute to enhanced climbing performance in competitive climbing Is a Positive ape index good for climbing? To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. This movie is perhaps my favorite climbing movie. Ape Index offers extensive climbing facilities with routes for all skill levels. Probably only relevant when sharing route beta with climbers of a similar height. The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. It’s the IFSC World Championships Women’s Lead Finals, and the crowd is ecstatic on this hot summer night in Bern. You probably noticed that climbing gym fashion is unlike anything else. He was born in Bergen, Norway. She’s celebrating her great performance with the public, but there’s one last climber to go: Ai Mori. Plug your results HERE. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index (12, 19, 29). Jul 25, 2024 · Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. The extended reach provided by a positive Ape Index can make a significant difference in reaching holds that would otherwise be out of grasp, pushing climbers to new heights of performance. 6 and +10. But which are really the most important? There have been many APE INDEX ROCK CLIMBING GYM, 9700 N 91st Ave, Ste 118, Peoria, AZ - 119 Photos - 93 Reviews - Phone Number - Hours This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. EDIT: Whoa, didn't read William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. That one person reversed the correlation for women. Let us know if you have any outstanding questions about lead climbing! We'd love to hear from you! 75 reviews of Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym "This is a solid climbing gym on the west side. May 12, 2025 · Height 6′ 5″ Age 43 (1972–2015) Ape Index Unknown Nationality American Dean Potter was one of the most daring and influential figures in the world of rock climbing and adventure Alex Honnold's approach to free solo climbing remains ambitious, even with the responsibilities of fatherhood. A large wingspan is pretty important in climbing and a +10 or in your case -10 in pretty extreme. That's why we offer a Free-in-depth climbing orientation for first time climbers. However, it’s essential to consider that this is a limited sample size. [6] Similarly, in a later The ape index describes the ratio of wingspan to height. [1] Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is Premier rock climbing gym with top rope climbing and bouldering that's open for all ages and skill levels located in Peoria, AZ. What is an Ape Index Calculator? Definition: This calculator computes the Ape Index, a measure of the ratio or difference between a person's wingspan and height, often used in sports like climbing and swimming to assess physical advantages. 1. Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. Jul 24, 2023 · Cross-training boosts climbing fitness and performance! This guide explains how CrossFit may help climbers improve. Try our free online calculator now! Jul 16, 2018 · Gear is only one part of the climbing experience. Thereby, the largest tip-to-tip distance between the extended fingers was measured as arm span. Long before I started rock climbing, I had a passion for the mountains. He retired from competition climbing in 2017. Whether your Ape Index is high, low, or 20 votes, 54 comments. Nov 15, 2023 · As always, climbing is a sport built on challenge by choice, so feel free to explore the world of lead climbing if it piques your curiosity or keeps crushing top-rope climbing and bouldering. Many successful climbers have neutral or even slightly negative ape indices. A 2001 study comparing teenage male and female rock climbers noted that performance differences between the genders could be explained by a number of factors, one of which was the lower ape index found in the female climbers. 0). Ape Index Climbing Gym provides a safe and controlled facility where active, fun-seeking individuals can challenge themselves, learn climbing, and bond with the climbing community in a positive and nurturing environment. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5. With this tool, you can check if your wingspan to height ratio will help you in your sports career. Janja Garnbret savors the moment; she’s the first competitor to top the route with only 5 seconds left on the clock. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. He climbing style is incredible to watch. Calculate your Ape Index easily with height and arm span measurements. Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. Click on one of the links below to find out more: Rates for day passes and multi-day passes at APE Index Climbing Gym. It's a no nonsense, with little story/dialogue, and all climbs are shown with a single continuous shot. An Ape Index less than 1 means your wingspan is less than your height. To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. But does it matter? Click to find out. What is the advantage of complicating it, and what is the advantage of increasing values for shorter climbers and decreasing it for taller climbers? You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. The climbers in this study had significantly (p<0,001) greater arm length and arm span and significantly higher ape index scores than the controls (1. This blog post explores what the ape index is, its significance for climbers, and how you can calculate First time climbing at Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Check this step out. 6 and +9. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. An Ape Index greater than 1 means your wingspan is greater than your height, which can be an advantage in sports like rock climbing. With a variety of options including private lessons, group activities, team building programs, and Specialties: Easier than you think - All ages 1 year old & up Birthday Parties Team Builders Competitive Training Outdoor Climbing Classes Established in 2007. I'm sad to inform you that you probably won't be the next Olympic bouldering champion. Find out now! Jun 4, 2024 · Some people believe that the greater the ape index, the better climber you will be but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Climbers with a positive ape Index may have an advantage in reaching distant holds and making dynamic moves, while those with a negative ape Index might excel in technical and precise climbing. Analysis of Climber Ape Indices The data suggests that many professional climbers have a positive ape index, indicating that they tend to have longer arms for their height. A 2001 study comparing teenage male and female competition climbers noted that performance differences between the genders could be explained by several factors, one of which was the lower ape index found in the female competition climbers. In rock climbing it is believed that an Ape Index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio, although this view is somewhat controversial. Their hours range from 3 pm – 10 pm Monday Experience an Ultimate Climbing Adventure with Climbing Day Pass and Gear for Up to 6 People (Up to 47% Off) Aug 4, 2023 · Improve your climbing skills with these four essential footwork tips for intermediate climbers. Far from slowing down, his recent 32-hour and 6 minute, Ultimate Red Rock Traverse is a testament to his enduring prowess and passion for climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. If somebody who was the same height as me, but with a +4" ape factor had to make a really reachy move on a route, I'd likely be looking for a different way to do that move. Feb 12, 2025 · The APE Index (Wingspan to Height Ratio) Calculator is a fine tool that is used to measure the ratio between an individual’s wingspan and their height. My stats: Height - 67 inches Arm Span - 71 inches Ape… I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. Of course, the Ape Index is a consideration here. Magnus Rognan Midtbø (born 18 September 1988) [8] is a Norwegian rock climber, former competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. However, if you were part of Ape index Ape index refers to the ratio of arm span to height, often reported by elite climbers. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: “A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. Our young climbing team at APE Index Rock Climbing Gym promotes self-esteem through overcoming problems, trusting and believing in themselves, and cheering on their friends. Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. In rock climbing, a longer arm span enhances reach, simplifying holds and moves. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Height: inches cm Wingspan: inches cm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. Ape index is basically the same as Jun 3, 2024 · The ape index, a correlation between height and arm span, is crucial for climbing performance. This concept has gained popularity among athletes, particularly climbers and gymnasts, where the ability to reach and stretch can significantly impact performance. Whether you want to top rope How does ape index affect climbing performance? A positive ape index can potentially help climbers reach further between holds. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ Experience an Ultimate Climbing Adventure with Climbing Day Pass and Gear for Up to 6 People (Up to 47% Off) What is a good ape index for climbing? As a general rule, a good ape index for climbing is between +2. It's a bit hard to see from the street, as the sign on the building just says "rock climbing". Discover if your arm span exceeds your height for potential advantages in climbing or other sports. Countering these studies are other works that have identified the ape index as a significant (or potentially significant) factor. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. Could she take home a medal for Team USA? The first example above, the ape index as a number, is the one most commonly used by climbers when reporting their ape index. Is it though? My impression of an ape index is a radio between the arms and legs (to put it in its most basic form). Come for fun, or come to train on your own or in a skills-based class, either way you won’t be disappointed. Jul 14, 2023 · Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. Oct 4, 2011 · The climbers in this study had significantly (p<0,001) greater arm length and arm span and significantly higher ape index scores than the controls (1. They provide a safe and controlled facility where active, fun-seeking individuals can challenge themselves, learn climbing, and bond with the climbing community in a positive and nurturing environment. If you enjoy bouldering and you keep improving why wouldnt you? Even for people with a better ape index there's always someone better so comparing to For climbers, the value of a good Ape Index will differ greatly compared to a weightlifter, footballer, or boxer. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. It changes nothing for your own personal potential though. Basketball players benefit too—longer arms assist in shooting and defense. Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. Master your technique and reach new heights! Countering these studies are other works that have identified the ape index as a significant (or potentially significant) factor. Nov 28, 2023 · Conclusion The Ape Index is a fascinating aspect of climbing physiology, offering some insight into potential physical advantages. It is used by rock climbers and other athletes to determine whether they will have an advantage or disadvantage when climbing. Basketball A player's wingspan can be important in basketball, especially for positions like center or forward where rebounding and shot-blocking are Rock Climbing Gym in Peoria, ArizonaWhy climb at Ape Index? We’ve created an environment where people can experience climbing on many levels; from the inexperienced one-time climber to the competing athlete. Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. With our calculator, you can quickly and easily find Jan 9, 2015 · Rock climber? Swimmer? Normal person who is curious about your body proportions? Find out your ape index. Jul 10, 2025 · Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. Aug 21, 2023 · The day is August 6, 2023. Recently published in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning, Ozimek, M et. al studied the body type of elite Polish boulderers to evaluate if variables such as body shape or ape index had any correlation to the level of climbing met by a group of Polish elite climbers. Additionally, the gym offers youth programs and Nov 2, 2023 · When you begin indoor rock climbing, it can be confusing to know what to wear. Jul 9, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Enter your wingspan and height to calculate your ape index instantly! Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Nov 29, 2024 · Ape Index in Sports Certain sports favor athletes with a high ape index. 6 centimeters and +9. Nothing can humble, invigorate and inspire me like the experience of interacting with the grand mountains of the world. Oct 8, 2021 · What Is the Ape Index? The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. While a positive ape index seems advantageous, there are notable exceptions: Lynn Hill: An ape index of 0 (or an ape index ratio of 1) Babsi Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. (2000) for adult male climbers (1. Welcome to the ape index calculator! Here you will learn what the ape index is (sometimes it's called the ape ratio), how to measure your ape index, and where you can use that knowledge. This simple calculation provides insights into physical proportions that can significantly influence performance in various sports, particularly climbing and gymnastics. On average, professional male climbers have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. It's not hard to learn to climb, but it's important that your lessons come from an experienced instructor. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. They created an environment that’s suitable for all skill levels and ages which broadens their customer base. However, it's crucial to remember that it's just one piece of the climbing puzzle. Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. The new owners took over in April 2018, Jun 8, 2019 · Two beautiful shots from Croatia edited for Comparison as it is tradition on this channel, this time taking a look at different body types in terms of reach, height and ape index in rock climbing May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. (31). Whether you want to top rope APE INDEX ROCK CLIMBING GYM, 9700 N 91st Ave, Ste 118, Peoria, AZ - 119 Photos - 93 Reviews - Phone Number - Hours Specialties: Easier than you think - All ages 1 year old & up Birthday Parties Team Builders Competitive Training Outdoor Climbing Classes Established in 2007. Whether it is reported in inches or centimeters depends on location: countries using the metric system will use centimeters. The new owners took over in April 2018, Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜, Narasaki Tomoa; born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering. No Experience Necessary - so this is your first time? Don't worry we'll be gentle. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. The average ape index is 1, which means that a person’s arms are the same length as their legs. Calculate your Ape Index and discover your weaknesses & strengths as a climber Determine the relationship between arm span and body height! The ape index is a fascinating measurement that determines the ratio of a person’s wingspan to their height. Located right in the heart of the city the state-of-the-art facility provides an experience for climbers of all levels. Known for redefining the The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Data were collected during upright stance. It's an hour of him basically crushing everything. Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym at 9700 N 91st Ave, Peoria, AZ 85345, USA - hours, address, map, directions, phone number, customer ratings and reviews. To explain it plainly, the APE Index is popular in sports and fitness, especially among climbers, as it can provide insights into reach advantage. The APE Index Rock Climbing Gym can help you whether you want to top rope, boulder, or auto-belay. Ape Index – how to measure it and does it really matter? Ape Index Calculator Height: inchescm Wingspan: inchescm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. Increase your REACH as a short Climber: • How a 5ft Climber became 𝙒𝙤𝙧𝙡𝙙 𝘾𝙝𝙖𝙢𝙥𝙞 Top Climbing Moments of 2022: • Top Climbing Moments of 2022 Janja Garnbret Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. The ape index, which is a ratio of your wingspan vs your height, is an interesting part of climbing because if you compare the average person to the top 1% of climbers, you will notice the top Apr 20, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 4 cm. And world-champion competition climber Sean McColl is just 5’ 6½” tall. Lean muscle mass, ape index, and bone mineral density of sport climbers and control subjects are shown in Table 3. I'm 6'0" with a neutral ape factor. Whip out your sticks (measuring) and compare. Heck Lynn Hill was 5'2'' with a negative ape index whilst breaking new boundaries left and right. 02, respectively), the ape index values being similar to those observed by Mermier et al. The total body dual-energy x-ray Climbing is a sport where every advantage counts, and understanding your body mechanics can transform your performance. As a climbing-specific anthropometric measure, the ape index was calculated as arm span divided by body height [13]. Apr 27, 2025 · Ape index is a phrase that started as climbing slang, but the origins of arm span compared to height actually date back to Roman times in 15 BC. The gym focuses on fostering a supportive climbing community. 4 centimeters. From: Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing [2019] As food for thought, at basically every point in climbing (except maybe now) the best climbers have had long ape indexes and/or were tall, going back into the stonemaster era, the jerry moffat/ben moon/wolfgang gullich, fred nicole, sharma, adam ondra. This is because you have a greater range when it comes to reaching. Ape index is your wingspan (the length from fingertip to fingertip with your arms outstretched) minus your height. 7 and +8. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. Comparing a 5ft 7 person and a 6ft 3 person in their ape index would achieve nothing since they're two entirely different heights. Your ape index and other measurements are also very important to know before you climb. He climbs like 10 boulders 8B and up or something like that, and makes them all look like piss. The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and… May 9, 2025 · Is the ape index rock climbing advantage a myth or reality? We dive into science vs. Ape Index in Peoria, AZ is a premier climbing gym that caters to climbers of all skill levels, from beginners to competitive athletes. Oct 18, 2022 · From there, we’ll look into the ape indices of the most famous rock climbers to see if there’s a positive correlation between elite performance and a high ape index. However, everyone seems to agree that having a higher “ape index” is helpful. Apr 25, 2024 · For now, let’s discuss what the ape index is and how to measure it, and also examine a series of other useful measurements that every climber should be aware of. before those other numbers? Why are bouldering and sport climbing grades so different? How the heck do you figure out where to start?? To learn the basics of climbing grades, get a little background, or just get an explanation as to why we climbers have succumbed to this grading chaos, read on! Apr 16, 2025 · 3. What is the average ape index? The ape index is the ratio of the length of a person’s arms to the length of their legs. Ape Index focuses on safety through proper instruction, while offering everyone, from first time climbers to competitive athletes, an area to have fun and grow. Additionally, you can even compare yourself with some of the greatest athletes. jpuhqdljhkzrksbpmfaynerpjjypqytqgzonhhheiybujwmkq