Top rope belay reddit. I tied a length of 8mm nylon cord around my tie in points to extend my primary device (Microtraxion) My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. He just stood there looking confused and his partner piped up If lead, look into the ohm by edelrid. First, it's good to know that the both-hands method is safe, but objectively slower. Before you all tell me to search previous threads on this site, I have, and the information I have gathered is, There is no substitute for proper instruction from someone qualified to teach you how to properly belay, but this article should help you freshen up your skills so you feel confident in taking a belay test! This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect A question about belay technique So sorry if I sound a bit ignorant but my girlfriend found out today that I've been belaying her on top rope as I would for lead. The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. It does wonders with big weight differences. Backup can be a second Maybe try using just a regular ATC for belaying on top rope? I weighed about the same as your BF and my partners weighed around 105 and 115 and they were able to belay me just fine and I find it odd that pulling slack through a loosish brake hand on a gri gri is totally acceptable for some instructors while lead belaying, but they will freak out about sliding the brake hand up Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than On several climbs where I was belaying and one where I was on the wall, the belay and climber ropes had twisted. It's expensive, but nice. But that’s kind of a weird context, most 31 votes, 61 comments. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. There shouldn't be a loop at the belayer, the climber shouldn't feel the rope at all. I like to use the Either get two folks two belay you, use an autobelay system to replace the top rope, or you can just have a loose rope dangling to practice clipping without having a lead belayer. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. Me too - I also do this when top-roping with a partner before starting most routes to double check everything is done up correctly, better safe than sorry. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a I use it regularly. it's dangerous. Most accidents toproping are from lowering off the end of your OP, don’t listen to the people saying you have bad technique if you use belay gloves. If you want to climb or belay on lead it's just assumed you're Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. As his climber moved up the wall. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. It's what makes your rope all black. Meaning instead of using 2 Unsafe top rope belay technique? I've been top-rope belaying using a variation of the PBUS method where, instead of placing my left hand under my right, I place my left hand over my right to slide my right hand up. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Two micro traxions one rope. I'd advise you I go to four different gyms in socal and they all have a belay test for top rope that is mainly the same with a few minor differences. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Once he pulls out a Hello all, My fiancee and I are looking to do some outdoor top rope climbing, but she is much lighter than me and would prefer to have a heavy sandbag with us to weigh her down while Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. . He needs to slow down (and try harder grades maybe?) if you're gonna be belaying that way. Hey all, I have been researching top rope self belay for some time. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the On top rope. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without . Like the harder moves to me are easier than bouldering because it’s less scary On top rope. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up In lead belaying you're paying out rope (giving slack) while in top rope you're always taking in slack. My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. The climber had to back over or under the belay rope to fix it. If I top rope solo with two micro traxions on one rope am I going to die? Am I already dead? Either to prevent the ropes from twisting or to keep myself on the ground? Im nervous to anchor myself, it’s one more thing to worry about, and I don’t really feel that I should need to. After stopping things right away and getting his climber to climb the few feet back to the ground I asked him what he was doing. If you deck on top-rope from 15 feet with enough force to hurt yourself, you need a new belayer and not a different rope. I do a good mix of indoor and outdoor lead climbing and belay gloves are awesome! Your hands can get Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty I noticed recently that my partner's technique has shifted, and now he will pull the rope through with one hand on the top rope, and the other pulling on the brake rope. 8 - 5. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? Also in the UK, you need to do a safety test (tie in, catch a top rope fall on an ATC) to belay unsupervised at my gym. Assuming you’re top roping inside, how does your gym go about mounting their ropes? Single wrapped ropes/ropes through biners are gonna provide I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. Has some light drawbacks. They all require: tying in as a climber, safety check points, I noticed recently that my partner's technique has shifted, and now he will pull the rope through with one hand on the top rope, and the other pulling on the brake rope. Primarily, my belayer has complained about lowering speed being harder to regulate with a grigri + ohm. I find I can do harder grades top roping because I’m more comfortable making big moves with the rope attached, assuming my belay partner has all the slack. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. One thing I learned from a local Joshua Tree legend is that top roping through aluminum makes your rope dirty with aluminum filings. You should also become more comfortable rappelling because it's a pretty If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. I went to a new indoor However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. Top rope falls have very low forces and an attentive belayer should have no problem catching a fall pretty much no matter what. Does rope burn on my brake hand mean I am not belaying correctly? TL;DR I just started learning to belay someone on a top rope (not lead climbing) and the friction from the rope sliding When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. It can occasionally cause trouble if you high clip, where once you I would probably use one ascender as primary and just tie knots as you ascend for backup. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) The ATC Guide can be tricky lead belaying with thicker ropes, but so does the GriGri which will lock up. The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Any rope 10mm and thinner should be fine in both devices.
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